HONORING THE BARRACUDA PART TWO
4/2/08
BY CORKY CARROLL

Last week we left off with our friend and publisher of THE SURFER’S JOURNAL magazine telling the story of the honoring of legendary surf photographer and waterman Bud the “barracuda” Browne at the San Louis Obispo Film Festival on March 13th. Here is the rest of the story. Take it away Steve:

“That night we entered the classic old Freemont theater in downtown San Luis Obispo, working our way through a crowd of old-school surfing personalities and local surfers, all qued up to fill the theater with hoots and cheers, just like it happened thirty-five years ago. The first rows were roped off for Bud and visiting surf dignitaries Linda Benson, who at 15 had ridden Waimea Bay in Bud’s films, Pipeline master Gerry Lopez, Hawaiian/Australian filmmaker Jack McCoy-a contemporary water view specialist, long time renown surfers Herbie Fletcher and John Peck, and big wave pioneers with wives Walter and Tricia Hoffman, Peter and Sally Cole, and Fred and Gretchen Van Dyke, and one of the top surfers in the world today, Joel Tudor. Just before the film started, Walter turned around in his seat and said to me, “Good god, Pezman, you shoulda’ been here for the dinner last night and lunch today, fabulous! Seafood towers, wine, it was sooo good! You missed it!” I was momentarily filled with anxiety.

The movie was preceded by the screening of an episode of Ira Opper’s TV series The Surfer’s Journal’s “50 Years of Surfing on Film” featuring interviews with Bud explaining why and how he made his movies. In lieu of Bud getting up and speaking, airing the documentary provided valuable context for the evening. While it played, Bud, wearing dark glasses like Ray Charles, seated in the middle of the first row next to Buzzy’s daughter Anna Trent Moore, grinned like a kid when he recognized a voice, then nodded off.

When Bud’s film started everyone in the auditorium was swept back to the 50s, a time full of stoke and adventure. How different it was back then verses today. There were the Waikiki Beach Boys surfing long planks, with names on them, hollow box boards and canoe, and playing music to the wahines. Then came the Makaha pioneers, streaking from point takeoffs on 90 lb. solid redwood “hotcurl” planks, straining to make the bowl at the end of 15’-20’ walls. Typical humor break; a surfer ties one end of a long rope to his board and the other to his ankle, to catch any thief that might try, then goes upstairs to bed on his mattress on the floor with towel for a pillow. Sure enough, thieves come, put his board on top of their old woody and drive away, jerking the poor surfer out of bed, down the stairs, out the door and down the road. Har-dee-har! There was Buzzy Trent, George Downing, Wally Froiseth, Jim Fisher, Cole and Van Dyke, Marge Calhoun, Jose Angel, Butch Van Artsdalen, Phil Edwards, Dewey Weber, Mickey Munoz and Miki Dora, Linda Benson, Donald Takyama, Allan Gomes…those names may mean little these days to the young wave riders, but in the 50s and 60s they were the kings and queens of the surf.

After the film, Jack, Peter, Fred, Linda, Gerry, John, and Walter came up on stage to give brief tributes to Bud. Linda thanked him for the thrill of seeing herself in a film. Gerry read a heartfelt letter from Marge Calhoun. Peter described how both of them being good swimmers helped them survive wipeouts. Van Dyke-beaming, just repeated how totally stoked he was! Peck thanked Bud for making him a surf star, adding that he’s never stopped surfing. Walter told of diving lobster with Bud at Makaha, going into a hole, getting stuck arms forward, running out of breath, and Bud swimming down and pulling him out. Jack McCoy, who MC’s the evening, thanked Bud for inspiring all the many filmmakers who followed him. Joel Tudor just bowed and thanked them all.

A question came from the audience. How old were they? Linda Benson was excused from answering. Gerry said he was about to turn 60. Van Dyke said 78. Peter and Walter said 77. John Peck was 64. Then came Joel. He grinned, kicked his foot, and said, 31. Everyone roared. For we old codgers, it was nice to have the younger generation appreciate us, at least for a moment.”

Thanks Steve and thanks to the Barracuda for all the great moments. Ride on.

SURFERS’ HALL OF FAME INDUCTEES 2008
The Wave 4-2-08
BY CORKY CARROLL

This years inductees into the SURFERS’ HALL OF FAME have been announced. Modern big wave surfing seems to be a significant theme in the 2008 picks. Here are the honorees and information released by the Hall of Fame:

Mike Parsons: The former NSSA (National Scholastic Surfing Association) champion is an ASP tour veteran, boasting a top 16 finish in 1987. Known as “snips” during his competition days for an uncanny ability to cut through smaller surf, Parsons transformed his surfing in the late 90’s when he sought to tackle the largest behemoths on the planet. The San Clemente native successfully rode a 66-footer at Cortes Bank in 2001 to win the Billabong XXL and then upped the ante earlier this year by riding an estimated 80 foot wave in January.

Brad Gerlach: Another NSSA product and Huntington Beach High graduate, Gerlach broke into the ASP Top 16 in 1986 and stayed there until he finished runner-up in 1991. “Gerr” then abruptly dropped off the tour, but continued to hone his surfing and ultimately embraced the burgeoning big wave movement. He towed Mike Parsons into a history-making wave in 2001 and Parson’s returned the favor in 2005, towing Gerlach into a 68-foot bomb at Todos Santos, Mexico. Brad is the founder of the National Surf League (NSL), the revolutionary surfing competition format adopted by ESPN’s X Games.

Sean Collins: President, Chief Surf Forecaster, and Founder of Surfline.com, Collins was the first person to accurately forecast swells on a regular basis in the '70s and early '80s. A surfer, sailor and self-taught meteorologist, he pioneered and created the first ongoing surf forecast available to the surfing public via Surfline and 976-SURF in 1985. He developed the very first live "Surfcam" in 1996, the precedent for the worldwide camera network available on Surfline.com today. Collins was named one of the "25 Most Influential Surfers of the Century" by Surfer Magazine in the summer of 1999 and the "8th Most Powerful Surfer in the Surf Industry" by Surfer Magazine in the summer of 2002.

Wayne “Rabbit” Bartholomew: Hailing from Australia’s famed Gold Coast Bartholomew was crowned world champion in 1978 and is a two-time “Masters” champion. Currently president of the Association of Surfing Professionals (ASP), Rabbit burst onto the international scene in 1975, an era during which saw the likes of Shaun Tomson, Mark Richards, Ian Cairns and Peter Townend vying for world titles. “Bugs” has had a huge influence on the sport from the ’70s through today, taking tube riding to new levels and mentoring such standout pros as Gary Elkerton and Sunny Garcia. Bartholomew plays a prominent role in the all-new documentary, “Bustin Down the Door.”

The Surfers’ Hall of Fame inductees are selected by a committee of business owners, surfers and surf industry professionals based on contribution, dedication, integrity and revolution to the sport of surfing. What started as a glint in founder Aaron Pai’s eye nearly 15 years ago is now an internationally recognized tourism destination and permanent tribute to surfing culture. Thousands of people yearly visit the site. One of the common things are people putting their own feet into the impressions of the great surfers and dreaming of being able to surf like them. Heck, I have done that myself. I once stuck my feet into those of Gerry Lopez to see if the vibes would make me a better tube rider. It did. But then I tried Lisa Andersons just to get in touch with my feminine side and the result was I grew two extra breasts. Geeze. They had to hide my own square under the trashcan so my pals would quit walking their dogs there. No mercy for the old cow in this town, none at all.

The Surfers Hall of Fame induction ceremony is held in July and is open to the public, free-of-charge. This is an event that I always look forward too and have been a part of as Co-Master of Ceremonies since the beginning. It has always been fantastic to be a part of celebrating the careers and contributions of such amazing surfers as Phil Edwards, Mike Doyle, Gerry Lopez, Shaun Tomsom, Tom Carroll, Linda Benson, Robert August, Paul Strauch, Jerricho Poppler, Lisa Anderson, David Nuuhiwa, Mark Richards, Andy Irons, Tom Curran, Peter Townend, Margo Oberg, Bud Lamas and all the others. The ceremony is held during the week of the big surf contest at the pier and is always packed with the elite of the surfing world. The Surfers’ Hall of Fame is located on the corner of Pacific Coast Highway and Main Street in front of Huntington Surf ‘n Sport who is the host. Further information is available at http://hsssurf.com/hall.