35th Anniversary of Five Summer Stories

9-12-007
By Corky Carroll


Thirty-five years ago Greg MacGillivray released his signature surfing movie titled Five Summer Stories.  Since then Greg has gone on to huge success in the real world including Oscar nominations and mega critical acclaim for his IMAX flims.   With the release of this surf film Greg did what no surf moviemaker before him did.  He paid the surfers in the movie.  This was a big first in the sport and it probably made all the other dudes making surf films a tad angry.  But it really made those of us that surfed in the film happy.

I had very mixed feelings for my part in the movie.  And there has always been a misconception over a certain sequence that Greg used me in.  It is a part that he had me wear a microphone duct taped to my chest and talk while I was trying to surf a fairly good small to medium sized day at the Pipeline on Oahu’s North Shore.
I said trying to surf for a good reason.  It is really hard to surf and talk at the same time.  Greg wanted me to describe what I was doing while I was doing it.  At first I got a few good rides but Greg was unhappy because I didn’t talk enough.  So I tried to talk more and the result was the more I talked the less I could surf.  If I took the time to say, “I going to hit it off the lip” it was too late to do it after I said it.  What he got was pretty much me running off at the mouth about all this stuff I was doing and I wasn’t doing anything at all.   And in the middle of all that there is a shot where I take off on a wave and some huge dude on a boogie board drops in on the other side of the peak.  The wave broke and I kicked out.  But with the telephoto lens it looked like I was aiming at the dude and I wasn’t.  Well that dude thought I was too and was yelling at me after the wave.  His voice sounded just like mine and everyone thought I was calling out the dude for dropping in on me.   At the premier people were yelling out “Yeah Corky, deck the shoulder hog.” But it was him that was calling me down.  I have always been extremely embarrassed about that part.  But at the very end of that sequence there is a shot of a little blonde dude trying to ride half of a broken board as a skimboard in the shorebreak.  That was actually Laird Hamilton at about 7 years old or something like that. 

On September 15th, the Surfing Heritage Foundation in San Clemente will celebrate the 35 Year Anniversary of the movie with its director Greg MacGillivray on hand.    The following is information taken directly from the official press release. 

In 1972, Greg and his filmmaking partner Jim Freeman made history with the first action sports surf film shot in 35 mm.  This is a one night only event, heralded as "the finest surf movie ever made!"  Since that time, MacGillivray Freeman Films has gone on to become one of the most successful producers of large format IMAX Theater films, with such popular titles as To Fly, The Living Sea, Coral Reef Adventures and Everest to its credit.

Doors will open at 7PM for this event.  The evening will include an insightful film panel discussion consisting of Greg himself and some of the top surfers in the film including Shaun Tomson (Former World Champion), David Nuuhiwa (Former US Champion), Ben Aipa (Big Wave Rider & Shaper), Jericho Poppler (Former Champion), Joyce Hoffman (Former Champion), Skitch Hitchcock (Skateboarding Champion), John Lamb (5SS Animator & Oscar Winner) and Angie Reno (Former Champion) (additional guests to be announced).  The film panel will be moderated by Sam George (former Editor of Surfer Magazine).

Because of the popularity of the film and special guests scheduled to appear, tickets are selling briskly and VIP has already sold out.  Many regard this as one of their favorite surf films, along with the trend-setting original music of Honk (whose career as a band was defined by the soundtrack in the film). A limited number of original movie posters and DVDs will be available for sale and signing at the evening’s festivities.


The Surfing Heritage Foundation is a non-profit organization dedicated to preserving, presenting and promoting surfing’s heritage for the appreciation and education of current and future generations; and to achieving the goal of surfing being more accurately understood, represented and enjoyed.


Tickets are $10 for General Admission, VIP is SOLD OUT.
To Purchase Tickets and get directions call Linda Michael 949.388.0313

 

FINS TO THE LEFT, FINS TO THE RIGHT

The Wave ~9-12-07
By Corky Carroll

I am a firm believer in surfboard fins with soft edges.  I use the Protec fins myself.  One because they are safer and two because they work good.  You can get them at most surf shops and are made by a company in Hawaii called Surfco.   I received the following email today and it just underlined my thinking on this matter.  Check it out.

“I look forward to your articles every weekend.  I surf with 5 other gals at Bolsa Chica and we are all big fans of yours.  I'm writing to you because I'm hoping you will remind your readers about the dangers of the sharp fins on surfboards.

My 9-year-old son, Sean, was seriously injured this summer by his own surfboard fin/scag.  He was surfing on the inside break at Bolsa Chica (in front of 16) when his board hit the bottom and bounced back and impaled him in the top of his left thigh.

I can honestly say that I almost watched my son die that morning.  The lifeguard saved his life.  Turns out the fin hit an artery, causing a blood clot.  We believe his wetsuit is the only thing that stopped that fin from severing the artery completely.  The vascular surgeon told us that, had it severed the artery, he would have bled out before getting out of the water and died for sure.  The surgeon said that kind of a death is not as rare as one would hope.

After the 911 experience/ambulance to the hospital, he ended up having emergency surgery to repair the artery and reconnect all of the muscle and nerves that were severed.  He spent a week in the hospital -- three days of it were in ICU.  It was bad.

Gratefully, he's home and on the mend now.  Just a few more weeks of crutches and he should be fine.

Throughout this ordeal, we have learned how common these fin injuries are.  Almost every male nurse at Hoag's ER had a huge scar to show Sean that was caused by a fin.  Even one of his surgeons had a severe head injury he'd survived from his.  The stories we have heard since Sean's injury have been numerous.

I bet if you walked up to a group of surfers at HB, you'd find that 80% of them would have a scar caused by a fin (either theirs or someone else's) to show you.  And, I bet about 60% of them would have a horrible story to tell you about a friend of a friend who suffered a life-threatening injury or was maybe even killed because of a fin.

The horrible stories I have heard disturb me.  Especially since I now know that surfing with rubber fins is all it takes to prevent these injuries.

I went to Becker and already replaced my older son's surfboard with rubber ones.  I bought the only set of rubber fins they had.  And, the other local surf shops I've checked don't even carry them because they said no one buys them.

I get that a pro surfer would not want them because of performance issues.  But, let's face it, most recreational surfers would not be able to tell the difference in a million years.  My neighbor, a 25-year surfer, has replaced all of his 15+ surfboards with rubber fins over the years.  He told me that, with his experience, has come the wisdom that injuries like Sean's are all too common and that it's just not worth it for him.

I absolutely love surfing.  But knowing what I know now, I will never be as carefree about this sport.  I realize how deadly our boards can be.  You are probably going to say that the dangers of this sport go with the territory.  I used to feel that way too.  But, I'm hoping you help to spread the word that lives can be saved by rubber fins.  At the very least, please help to inform parents of young surfers of these dangers.  If they don't surf themselves, they may not have any clue as to what types of injuries can occur.  I would love to stop even one parent from ever having to see their child suffer from a serious injury that can be so easily prevented.  You are in a position to do so.  Thanks for your time.”

Sincerely,
Kelly Morrissey
A RipMama of Bolsa Chica