THEY SAY IT’S MY BIRTHDAY

9-26-07
By Corky Carroll

Happy birthday to me, Happy birthday to me…… bla bla bla…. Etc.   Yep, children of the surf, and or corn as the case may be, today is not only my birthday but I am turning freaking SIXTY years old today.  Say it isn’t so.  How could this have happened to me in such a short window of time?  I am still a mere child barely awakening to the sweet nectars of life.  This number must be wrong.  Very, very, wrong indeed.   I don’t look sixty.  Well maybe I do but I really don’t feel sixty.  O.K. got me there too I guess, but in all honesty I know for a foregone fact that I do NOT think sixty.  No way, Jose.  I think way closer to twelve than sixty, ask anybody.  Geeze.

On such a momentous occasion in a young mans life, such as today is with me, it is sort of behoveable to look back and reflect, ponder if you will, on the many changes that have occurred during this journey that has led me up to this moment in time.   It has been an adventure.  That is for sure.

Probably the first really important event that changed my life was when as a very small boy my parents decided to move to the beach.  We lived in Alhambra and they did not think that was such a great place to raise me.  They were so, so, so very right on that one.  Thanks mom and dad.  Wise choice.

Then there was that Christmas when my dad gave me my first surfboard.  A custom-made 8’7” balsawood pintail made by Dick Barrymore in his garage in Seal Beach.  Dick was a Los Angeles County Fireman at the time but later went into the surfboard business.  His real calling came later as a ski moviemaker.   My board weighed 47 pounds.  I weighed 44 pounds.   That was the day that any chance of my going to college ended.

One earth-shaking event that I can still remember etched into my semi-functioning memory bank was the day my cousin Gracie taught me how to play strip poker.  We were about eight or nine years old at the time.  She was the first girl I ever saw naked.  THAT definitely changed everything.   After that I wanted to see all of them naked.  

In 1962 I won my first surfing contest.  It was the San Clemente Surf Capades.   This put my self-confidence factor into orbit so to speak.  Even my best pals had a hard time living with me.  But that confidence level did put me on a path towards becoming a professional surfer.   That became a reality two years later when Hobie Alter, of Hobie Surfboards, put me on salary to do nothing but surf.  That and a few endorsement contracts pretty much made me the very first legitimate pro surfer.   

The highlight of my surfing career as far as I am concerned was winning the SURFER POLL.   All the contests were cool but winning the poll meant a lot more to me.  

In 1967 I got married the first time and we had our son Clint a year later.   From that moment on life would never be the same.  I knew that I was meant to be a family dude from the start even though there was a party animal inside of me that occasionally wanted to come out and play.  When I retired from the competitive surfing scene in 1972 we moved to Sun Valley, Idaho to ski and play music.  This was a really nice period of my life.  

I later was married a second time and I have two children from that one that I love with all my heart.  The amazing Kasey, and Tanner, the wonder boy with a million moves.  

When that one didn’t work out I started hanging out in Mexico more and more and that is where I met the Muy Bonita Karlita.   This is the most fun and exciting woman I have ever been anywhere near and I am happy to say that we are coming up on our third anniversary this November.  This is the woman of my dreams and I am in love like a schoolboy.  We split our time between Orange County and Mainland Mexico, it is a great combo. These last few years have been amazing and I feel that I have finally got my feet on the ground and am where I want to be with myself.  I like me a little bit now and I used to hate my own guts.   I still surf everyday.  Life is good.  

But sixty?   I want a recount.  I am just getting started.  But hey, the senior discounts are pretty good.  And maybe I can score a commercial for Viagra or something.  What the heck.  Boing boing, ging ging.  

 

 

LIFE IS BETTER WHEN YA SURF

The Wave ~ 9-26-07
By Corky Carroll

Ya know folks, be it friends, neighbors or whoever you are, it is really sweet to be a beacon in the community.  I don’t really consider myself that but for the purpose of today’s column I am going to assume that I am.  Kinda like a mystic leading the flock to the Promised Land.  Aiming the camel caravan to the oasis where the cool pools of water and the tents with dancing and pretty much unclad harem girls await with open arms and that music playing that makes the cobras come out of the baskets.  A virtual lighthouse protecting the ships from running aground in the stormy and foggy night and seeing them tucked safely into the snug harbor where there is frivolity and merry-making and people singing “yo ho ho and a bottle of rum.”
Yeah, a leader of mice and men alike.  Just aching to show my loyal followers the way into the light.   

As an example I received the following email this morning from Mike McCarthy.  Mike is a local Huntington Beach surfer and the dude who tests the ocean water off our shores for safety.  He, like so few of you ever do, took my advice, sage and wise that it is, and entered a contest asking to submit why you think your life is better because you surf.  Here is his email and winning entry.

“I think you are the one that suggested to your readers that they submit an entry to the Surfindustries website writing about why they think their life is better because they surf.  Anyway, I submitted my entry and…… holy moley, I won.  This is a big deal.  Over 900 entries from around the world and they picked my entry as the winner.  I got one new surfboard already (a 6’3” superfish) and I get a new board on my birthday (my choice) every year for ten years. Holy moley again.  I just wanted to write and say thank you for motivating me to send in my entry.  You just never know unless you try!!!!!I have attached my entry although you can read it on the Surfindustires website - HOLY MOTHER OF MOLEY!!!!!!!!   http://www.surfindustries.com/”

Here is Mike’s winning entry:


“I don’t think my life is better because I surf, I know my life is better!

I always feel better after I surf. When I have a head cold I always feel better after a good surf session. My wife says after surfing I’m always in a better mood and more amorous. When my oldest son had a heart transplant, surfing helped me cope (he’s doing great now). When my youngest son went to fight in Iraq, surfing made me strong (he’s home safe after two tours). When my little brother died from cancer, surfing eased the pain. Maybe it’s the salt water – our ancestors did come from the sea. Maybe it’s the sunshine – it warms your bones. Maybe it’s the camaraderie of surfing with your friends – nothing is more fun.  Maybe it’s because I get to experience things like watching pelicans skim the water and sharing a wave with a dolphin. Maybe because when I surf I talk to God. I’m not a spiritual person. I don’t go to church, but when I’m surfing I feel spiritual.

So how does all this make my life better? I am more relaxed, more patient, more loving, and friendlier. These are all good traits to have if you want a better life. But there is also the exercise factor from surfing. Exercise makes me more energetic, lowers my blood pressure, keeps me thin, and these help boost my self confidence. With this additional self confidence I have graduated from college and completed my Master degree which helped me find a job I love. Having a job, family, and friends I love makes for a completely happy life. Wow all this from surfing! You bet, and the funny thing is – I know there are many of you like me that have had your life enhanced by surfing too.  Aw nuts, who I’m I kidding, my life isn’t enhanced by surfing – my life IS surfing.”
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

O.K. not bad.  But I entered this contest too and I got ripped off.  My entry was so much more to the point and had much more of a profound message.  I shoulda won this thing.   Check it out, this was my entry:

“My life is better because I surf because if I didn’t surf I would be DEAD.”

Now ask yourself honestly, which one of these is the more dead on (had to say that) answer?   It’s mine of course.  Where are my new boards?